Building a pond in your front or backyard is a fun, creative project that can add years of enjoyment to your yard landscape. You can install a basic pond that is just a basin filled with water, or you can build a pond with a plant shelf for aquatic plants to add texture, interest, and color. You can also build a pond specifically for fish such as goldfish or koi. Ponds can be built from scratch or you can install a pre-formed pond liner. Larger ponds can be excavated with machinery like excavators, bulldozers, and backhoes. We will address building a pond with the use of a pond liner.

Preparation

A pond makes an interesting and beautiful addition to your landscaping

1. Spend time studying the location of your pond.
2. Take into consideration the location of trees, shrubbery, property lines, fences, and underground utilities.
3. Once you have the basic pond design worked out, lay the design out on the ground. You can use sand, marking paint, or flour to lay out the perimeter of the pond. A garden hose works well, too.
4. Dig down around the perimeter of the pond at a slight angle to the proper depth.
5. If you are going to have a plant shelf, excavate the 10″ wide shelf around the perimeter of the pond at a depth of 10″ to 12″ deep.
6. Continue excavating the center of the pond to the depth you want.
7. Clean out any stones, sharp rocks, sticks, roots, or debris from inside the pond excavation.
8. Make sure the rim of the pond excavation is level or at least reasonably so.

Pond liner installation

1. Install a layer of sand about 2″ deep in the pond excavation. This will cushion and protect the liner.
2. You can also install a geotextile underlayment product over the sand base that will further protect the pond liner.
3. Stretch out the pond liner on the ground and let it rest for at least an hour or so.
4. Lay the liner over the pond excavation making sure it is evenly disbursed around the perimeter of the pond.
5. Work out as many wrinkles and folds in the liner as you can.
6. Begin filling the liner with water.
7. Once you have the liner as full of water as you desire, trim the excess liner around the edge of the pond leaving at least 4″ to 6″ overlap.
8. Tie down the liner overlap with stones, gravel, coping stones, or slate. Whatever product you use to finish off the edge of your pond, make sure that it is clean or the dirt and debris will wash down into the pond.

Tips

Make sure the rim of your pond is at least 10% higher than the surrounding ground. This will help to prevent rainwater from washing insecticides, pesticides, and lawn fertilizers down into your pond.

If you are going to add a pump to your pond, make sure you check local codes and install all required electrical wiring in accordance with the NEC.

If you plan on adding fish to your pond, make sure that you dechlorinate the water before adding the fish. There are products you can buy to achieve this.

To add a waterfall to one end of your pond, plan on buying a large enough liner to accommodate the waterfall, as well.

Placing mulch in your garden or flowerbed is a premier method of controlling weeds. Mulch also has many other functions in gardening and landscaping. A good mulch helps to slow soil erosion and  retain moisture thus reducing the need for watering. The proper mulch also helps to regulate soil temperatures. Using a mulching lawnmower is good for your lawn, as well. The mulched grass clippings decompose and add nutrients to your lawn. A mulching lawn mower uses a different style of blade than a regular mower. The primary reason for using a good mulch, however, is to control the growth of weeds.

Purposes of mulch

Mulch is used to:

1. Slow down soil erosion on slopes or hillsides.
2. Regulate soil temperatures, keeping the soil cool in the summer and warm in the winter.
3. Retain moisture in the soil.
4. Prevent the growth of weeds.
5. Amend the soil.

Types of mulch

There are many different types of organic mulch.

1. Shredded newspaper.
2. Partially composted leaves.
3. Straw or hay.
4. Wood chips.
5. Sawdust.
6. Bark.
7. Pine straw.
8. Lawn clippings.

Inorganic mulches

These are primarily;

1. Gravel or stones.
2. Black plastic sheeting.
3. Lawn or landscape fabric.

Choosing the correct mulch

1. Take into consideration the specific application in which you are planning to use a particular mulch.
2. Appearance is an important consideration in choice of mulch.
3. Use a stone mulch around trees, succulents, and cacti.
4. Use lawn or grass clippings in open, unplanted areas.
5. Black plastic or landscape fabrics may not add to the aesthetic of your prize flowerbeds but may look just fine in your vegetable garden.
6. Availability of a particular mulch material may also be an important factor influencing your decision. Pine straw, for example, may not be available in your area.
7. Some mulch materials can be left on your beds year around. Most mulches, however, need to be removed and replaced annually.

Tips

If you are going to use leaves for a mulch, be sure to shred them first. You can partially shred leaves by running your mulching lawnmower over them.

Be aware that using grass clippings in flowerbeds or vegetable gardens may add weed seeds to your beds. That is why grass clippings work best for mulch in wide, open, unplanted spaces.

National Arbor Day is April 24^th. It is a day to celebrate our nation’s forests by planting a tree. Last year, Arbor Day Foundation members planted over 8 million trees nationwide. Planting trees may seem like a foolproof task but paying attention to the planting details is what ensures a healthy, growing tree.

You can obtain tree seedlings or young stock from most nurseries, garden centers, or tree farms. They typically come as bare root trees, balled and burlapped trees, or containerized trees. No matter how they come packaged, there are certain common planting procedures to them all and certain processes that are peculiar to each type. No matter which type you buy, allow plenty of room for the tree to grow to maturity. Take into consideration such things as sunlight, exposure to weather, proximity to buildings, location of underground utilities, sidewalks and pavements.

Bare Root Trees

1. Remove the tree from its packaging.
2. Soak the tree roots in room temperature water for 3 to 6 hours.
3. Clear all the grass from the proposed planting location.
4. Till the ground in a 3 foot radius with a roto-tiller or by hand.
5. Cover the roots of the tree and keep them cool and moist until planting.
6. Place the tree in the center of the hole and support it.
7. Backfill the hole with the original dirt making sure the root collar is at or just above ground level.
8. Tamp the soil gently to eliminate all air pockets as you backfill.
9. Form a small basin around the tree for water and water it generously.
10. Finally, mulch around the base of the tree with garden bark, sawdust, or woodchips.

Balled and burlapped trees

1. Prepare a large hole at least 2 to 3 times as large as the root ball and as deep. Make sure it is at least 10-12 inches deep.
2. The sides of the hole should slope outward somewhat.
3. The root collar should be at or just above ground level. Fill in the hole a little, if necessary, to make certain the root collar is positioned correctly.
4. Remove the burlap by cutting it and removing the nails that hold it in place. This is especially important if the burlap material is vinyl or treated.
5. Backfill the hole with original soil a little at a time, packing it firmly to remove all air pockets.
6. Form a basin around the tree for watering.
7. Water the tree generously.
8. Mulch around the tree with bark, sawdust, woodchips, or lawn clippings.

Containerized trees

1. Remove the tree from the container, being careful to keep the soil intact.
2. Tap the sides and bottom of the container to safely remove the tree.
3. Inspect the root system of the tree. If it appears to be root-bound, cut the bottom of the root system with a sharp knife 2 or 3 times and slice into the sides of the root system vertically at least 4 times in different locations.
4. Place the tree in the center of the prepared hole.
5. Backfill the hole using the same procedure, always tamping the dirt to make sure all air pockets are eliminated.
6. Provide a basin around the tree for watering.
7. Water the tree generously.
8. Mulch the tree with the same materials as the other types of tree packaging.

Tips

Support balled and burlapped trees by the ball when moving them. Do not move the tree by its trunk alone.

The root collar of the tree is the spot on the trunk where the roots begin. Make sure this point is always at or above ground level.

Always keep mulch at least 4 inches away from the tree trunk itself.

Prune dead, broken, or tangled branches when planting the tree.

Water the tree at least once a week, every week to promote optimum growth.

There are many different varieties of beautiful roses such as english, tea, hybrid tea, old garden, shrub, and once-blooming roses and they all benefit from proper pruning at the right time. Roses bloom at different times of the year depending on their variety. Hybrid tea roses need the most severe pruning for best bloom production and optimum plant health. In general, spring is the best time to prune your roses.

Reasons To Prune

1. Prune your roses to remove dead, damaged, or diseased wood.
2. Pruning helps to increase air circulation.
3. Prune rose bushes that are becoming an unruly mess with canes running every which way.
4. Shape your favorite rose bush with careful pruning.
5. Encourage new growth and flowering wood by judicious pruning.

Pruning Fundamentals

1. Use only clean, sharp tools for pruning.
2. Cut the stems at a 45 degree angle about 1/4″ above an outward-facing bud. Slant your cut away from the bud.
3. Remove all dead or dying canes from your rose plant. Shriveled, dark brown, or black canes are dead or dying.
4. Apply white glue to the cut ends of the stems to seal them.
5. Remove all weak, thin canes that are smaller in diameter than a pencil.
6. Remove suckers where they originate at the root of the plant.

Tips

Prune your rose bushes to produce an open-centered plant for best penetration of air and light.

Dead-heading is removing faded flowers before they can produce seeds. When dead-heading rugosa and other shrub-type roses with hips, leave all the faded flowers and simply brush away the dead blossoms by hand.

If your rose plant is weak or small, do not cut away very much material as it will hamper the plant’s food-making ability.

Finally, do not cut flowers after October 1st so they can begin hardening off in preparation for winter.

Springtime means lawn work, dealing with the yard waste from the winter’s storms … and trimming your hedges. Hedge plants run the gamut from evergreens and deciduous plants to exotic grasses and flowering shrubs like hibiscus. They include beautiful species such as buxus green velvet, varieties of thuja, ilex soft touch, and the ubiquitous boxwood.

Hedge trimming can be a daunting task without the correct tools and instruction. You can use manual hedge clippers if you have a small privet hedge or lots of time or you can use electric or gas powered hedge trimmers. They do a good job on certain hedge plants and are fast but more expensive than the manual clippers. On the downside, electric or gas hedge trimmers can tear and break twigs and even jam up on some types of hedge materials. They also burn electricity or gas and that costs money. Manual trimmers cut closer than power trimmers and they are more precise. For a more professional look, choose manual hedge trimmers. Proper preparation is key to getting a professional looking job done.

Preparation

1. Install stakes and strings to form a grid over your hedge. The string will serve as a cutting guide.
2. You can level the horizontal strings by using a small string level, available at most hardware stores or anywhere construction supplies are sold. You can also use a water level if you are familiar with how one works.
3. Putting up the grid lines to guide your cuts is what takes the most time. Pruning the hedge is a simple matter of following your guidelines and trimming the material that sticks out past them.

Pruning

1. How you prune your hedge depends to a large degree on what kind of plant makes up your hedge.
2. Evergreen plants require one pruning technique.
3. Deciduous plants require a different technique, in many cases.
4. Grasses and flowering shrubs need to be pruned in a different manner to keep from damaging them.

Tips

1. Spend lots of time setting up your guide stakes and string. Patience and attention to detail here will pay off in the end.
2. Do not try to cut too much in one pass. It is better to take smaller bites and focus on precise cuts.
3. Avoid cutting the tough twigs and branches with your manual pruners. They will dull the cutting edge. Use a pruning saw or a different type of pruning sheers designed to cut woody branches.
4. Prune your hedge in the preferred “inverted keystone” pattern. That is, prune your hedge wider at the base and narrower at the top. This allows sunlight to reach the bottom foliage and promote sturdy, healthy growth.
5. A rounded or pointed top to your hedge is better than one cut straight across; it sheds rain and snow better.
6. Regular pruning will keep your hedge looking great and growing healthy from year to year.