Fire extinguishers are a necessity in any home. Whether your home is an older Victorian, or a Cape Cod, a Craftsman style, or a brand new condominium, it is not well equipped unless you have the proper type fire extinguishers strategically placed.The kitchen, or living room-especially if you have a freestanding or built-in fireplace-the basement, and any other rooms that may have sources of combustion should have a fire extinguisher handy. But any old fire extinguisher just will not do. There are specific types that are required for certain types of fires. The National Fire Prevention Association is the national governing body for fire prevention. Their codes and standards cover fire extinguishers and fire extinguishing systems nationwide. Underwriters laboratories is the national organization that tests and certifies fire extinguishers for use.

Types

1. Dry chemical extinguishers containing an extinguishing agent and propelled by a non-flammable, compressed gas are for multi-purpose use.
2. Carbon dioxide extinguishers are primarily used on Class B and C fires, i.e. for liquids and electrical fires.
3. Water extinguishers are simply water-filled containers under pressure.
4. Halon extinguishers are special use fire extinguishers primarily designated for use on proprietary electrical equipment.

Classifications

There are four different classifications of fire extinguishers. These are distinguished by the types of fires they are designed to put out.

They used to be identified by letter, e.g. A, B, or C. The newer models are identified by pictures corresponding to the type of burning materials.

1. Type A fire extinguishers are to be used on ordinary combustibles found in the home such as wood, paper, household garbage, etc.
2. Type B fire extinguishers are used on flammable liquids like gasoline, grease, oil, etc
3. Type C extinguishers should only be used on fires that are started or fed with electricity like fires in electrical panels or in case of an electrical short in wiring.
4. Type D extinguishers are used for flammable metal fires like burning magnesium and are not commonly found in homes.

Choosing the correct extinguisher

1. Consider what the most likely source of fire will be in the room where you intend to store the extinguisher.
2. If you are concerned about an electrical fire, for example, in a furnace room or garage where there is an electrical panel or equipment, you may want to choose a type C extinguisher.
3. In a garage or shop where a grease or oil fire is likely, you may elect to use a type B extinguisher.
4. The most common extinguisher for residential use is labeled ABC or has corresponding pictures to indicate that it can be used on all three classifications of fires.
   

   Know where your fire extinguisher is and how to use it properly

Tips

It is critical that you select the proper fire extinguishers for your home and place them in prominent locations.
Instruct all the members of your family or residents in your home on the location and proper operation of every fire extinguisher.
Inspect your fire extinguishers regularly and have them serviced or refilled when the gauge shows they are low.
If your fire extinguishers are not serviceable, replace them with the proper type that are.
Fire safety is your responsibility.

The gutter and downspout system performs a necessary function in the effective maintenance of your home. In cooperation, they receive runoff, primarily rainwater, from your roof surfaces and direct it down and away from the house. This prevents a damaging buildup of water alongside your foundation, crawlspace, or basement. Proper maintenance of your gutter/downspout system prevents roof damage as well as protecting plants and shrubbery alongside your home, your siding, and your foundation. Whether your gutter/downspout system is manufactured from steel, aluminum, copper, or plastic; whether it is a continuous system or made up of traditional sections and pieces, you will need to clean and repair it from time to time.

Cleaning the gutters

1. Use a whisk broom or a garden hose to remove debris from your gutters.
2. You can also use rubber gloves and manually scoop out the debris into a bucket with a gutter scoop.
3. A shop vacuum with a long attachment effectively sucks up dirt, leaves, and debris from the gutters.
4. After cleaning the gutters, inspect them for holes, dents, sagging, and other damage.

This gutter needs some attention

Cleaning the downspouts

1. Flush out the downspouts with a garden hose and nozzle.
2. If they are plugged up, you will need to use a sewer cleaning cable to flush out the debris. Then flush them thoroughly with a garden hose.
3. Inspect the downspout connections.
4. Make sure the splash block is in place and intact.

Repairing gutters

1. Clean the area around any holes in the bottom of the gutter. Use a wire brush to remove any rust.
2. Cut a patch slightly larger than the hole out of the same material as the gutters are made from.
3. Apply a bead of a good quality silicone caulk around the edges of the hole. You can also use roof cement.
4. Lay the repair patch over the hole and press it firmly into the caulk or roof cement.
5. Drill the same size hole as the pop rivet you will use approximately 1/2″ or 3/4″ apart around the edge of the gutter patch .
6. Insert the pop rivet and set it with a pop rivet gun. The rivet should project down below the gutter.
7. Use a small amount of caulk to seal the pop rivets inside the gutter.
8. Smooth the excess caulk or roof cement.
9. If your gutter is sagging, remove the 7″ long nail and replace it with the same length gutter screw. If your fascia is rotted or degraded so the nail will not hold, use a gutter hanger or strap hanger that supports the gutter from the roof instead.

Tips

Use the same technique for repairing downspouts as you used to repair your gutters.

If you are having trouble with the downspouts falling off, fasten them in place with pop rivets.

Clean your gutters and downspouts at least twice a year and inspect them for needed repairs.

If your gutters are sagging or water stands in the bottom of the gutters in places, add additional hangers to make sure your gutters slope at least 1/16″ per foot.

Use a solid step ladder or properly placed extension ladder while working on your gutters. If you feel uncertain or unsafe in cleaning your gutter system hire qualified help. Buy and use safety gear. Protect yourself from falls.

The dryer vent is an important piece of your clothes dryer’s proper operation. It is the plastic or light metal hood-like terminus on the outside of your home.

It directs warm, moist air and lint to the outside. The dryer vent hood consists of a hood, a mount flange, a sleeve connection for the dryer vent pipe, a plastic trim ring, and a flapper that seals the dryer vent system from the entrance of pests, birds, leaves, and other intruders when the dryer is not running. Because the dryer vent is on the outside of your home, it is exposed to the weather, which will cause deterioration over time. Bumping the plastic or light metal vent hood will also damage it. Replacement is generally not difficult.

Removal

1. Gain access to the old dryer vent by unplugging the dryer and moving it out away from the wall.
2. If your dryer is gas-operated, turn off the gas cock behind the appliance and disconnect the flexible gas connector.
3. Loosen the clamp on the dryer pipe near where it passes out through the wall.
4. Outside, use a razor knife to cut away the caulking, if there is any, around the mount flange of the dryer vent.
5. Remove the screws in the mount flange that hold the vent to the outside wall.
6. Twist and gently pull the dryer vent sleeve out of the dryer pipe.
7. Inspect the dryer pipe for lint build-up and damage.
8. Gently clean any lint build-up out of the vent pipe. A shop vacuum works well for this.
9. Replace the dryer vent pipe, if necessary. Be sure to use metal vent pipe for a gas dryer.

Replacing a dryer vent is generally easy

Installation

1. Slide the new dryer vent hood through the hole in the outside wall.
2. Orient the new dryer vent hood so it points down toward the ground.
3. Fasten the mount flange to the wall with screws. Use plated or galvanized screws so they will not rust.
4. Run a bead of a good quality acrylic latex caulk with silicone around the joint where the mount flange meets the siding.
5. Inside, slip the dryer vent trim ring around the vent sleeve and fasten the trim ring to the wall.
6. Carefully push the dryer vent pipe over the vent hood sleeve connection.
7. Reinstall the vent pipe clamp and carefully snug it up.
8. If you disconnected a gas line to move your dryer, reconnect it now. Turn on the gas cock and test the connections with a soapy water solution. If bubbles are present, the joint is leaking. Retighten it.
9. Move the dryer back into position and plug it in.

Tips

1. When you slide your dryer out, protect the floor so the feet of the appliance do not damage it.
2. Your new dryer vent hood may be a slightly larger outside diameter than the old one. If so, you may need to enlarge the hole in the outside wall. Simply cut a little material away with a sabresaw or sawzall and long wood-cutting blade.
3. Be careful to check every accessible gas connection behind the dryer when you reinstall it, not just the one you took apart. Spray or brush a heavy solution of dish detergent and water on each connection. Then watch and wait to see if any bubbles appear. When you are done, wipe up all the test solution so it does not rust the connections.

Springtime means lawn work, dealing with the yard waste from the winter’s storms … and trimming your hedges. Hedge plants run the gamut from evergreens and deciduous plants to exotic grasses and flowering shrubs like hibiscus. They include beautiful species such as buxus green velvet, varieties of thuja, ilex soft touch, and the ubiquitous boxwood.

Hedge trimming can be a daunting task without the correct tools and instruction. You can use manual hedge clippers if you have a small privet hedge or lots of time or you can use electric or gas powered hedge trimmers. They do a good job on certain hedge plants and are fast but more expensive than the manual clippers. On the downside, electric or gas hedge trimmers can tear and break twigs and even jam up on some types of hedge materials. They also burn electricity or gas and that costs money. Manual trimmers cut closer than power trimmers and they are more precise. For a more professional look, choose manual hedge trimmers. Proper preparation is key to getting a professional looking job done.

Preparation

1. Install stakes and strings to form a grid over your hedge. The string will serve as a cutting guide.
2. You can level the horizontal strings by using a small string level, available at most hardware stores or anywhere construction supplies are sold. You can also use a water level if you are familiar with how one works.
3. Putting up the grid lines to guide your cuts is what takes the most time. Pruning the hedge is a simple matter of following your guidelines and trimming the material that sticks out past them.

Pruning

1. How you prune your hedge depends to a large degree on what kind of plant makes up your hedge.
2. Evergreen plants require one pruning technique.
3. Deciduous plants require a different technique, in many cases.
4. Grasses and flowering shrubs need to be pruned in a different manner to keep from damaging them.

Tips

1. Spend lots of time setting up your guide stakes and string. Patience and attention to detail here will pay off in the end.
2. Do not try to cut too much in one pass. It is better to take smaller bites and focus on precise cuts.
3. Avoid cutting the tough twigs and branches with your manual pruners. They will dull the cutting edge. Use a pruning saw or a different type of pruning sheers designed to cut woody branches.
4. Prune your hedge in the preferred “inverted keystone” pattern. That is, prune your hedge wider at the base and narrower at the top. This allows sunlight to reach the bottom foliage and promote sturdy, healthy growth.
5. A rounded or pointed top to your hedge is better than one cut straight across; it sheds rain and snow better.
6. Regular pruning will keep your hedge looking great and growing healthy from year to year.

Doorknobs come in many shapes, styles, sizes, and configurations. You can get doorknobs in any finish you desire from antique brass to brightly finished brass, chrome, or even exotic finish combinations like wrought iron and crystal. Installing a doorknob or replacing a worn out one is not difficult but it can look confusing with all the different pieces. Tools required to remove and replace doorknobs are rudimentary, usually those found in most home owners’ toolkits.

Purchase the doorknob

1. Purchase the doorknob of your choice, choosing the finish that is right for you.
2. Pay special attention to the specifications on the doorknob package.
3. Verify that the doorknob is designed to fit the thickness of door you have.
4. Ensure that the doorknob lock is the style you want whether push button, turn button, or no lock at all, as in the case of an interior door.

Remove the old doorknob

1. On most interior doorknobs, you have to remove the escutcheon (the finished ring behind the knob) in order to expose the two mount screws. Just twist and pull it toward you. You may have to work it free with the tip of a knife blade or very fine screwdriver.
2. Remove the knob by pushing the tip of the very fine screwdriver into the small slot on the stem of the knob and pulling the doorknob toward you.
3. Now the mount screws are exposed. Simply unscrew them and remove the two halves of the doorknob assembly from the door.
4. Push the latch assembly out of the door.

Changing an interior doorknob

1. Push the new latch assembly into place through the hole in the edge of the door.
2. Insert one half of the doorknob assembly, usually the half with the threaded mount holes, into the latch in the doorknob hole. Make sure the threaded mount holes go through the corresponding holes in the latch.
3. Install the second half of the doorknob
4. Start the two mount screws in the mount holes. Install the mount plate over the heads of the two mount screws. Snug the screws up.
5. Slide the finish ring over the doorknob stem, push it into position, and turn it slightly to lock it in place
6. Push the doorknob into position until it snaps in place.
7. Test your new doorknob installation. You may have to adjust the strike plate on the doorjamb for proper closing.

Tips

There are so many varieties of doorknobs on the market that it is impossible to cover all makes and models in a short article. Always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions to properly install your new doorknob. Exterior doorknobs install in a similar manner. Be certain that the door closes snugly after the installation. With exterior doors, make sure the door closes tightly against the weatherstripping. If necessary, remove the striker plate and adjust it in or out, enlarging the striker hole in the jamb accordingly.

Soldering copper, also known as sweating copper, is an old art and an easy one to learn. Copper piping is widely being supplanted by new technologies such as pvc, cpvc, pex tubing, and cross-linked pex. But there are still situations where copper water piping is desirable and even widely used. You will still typically find copper water pipes in commercial buildings such as schools, hospitals, public buildings, and business and industry. Some contractors still utilize copper water piping in residences in certain parts of the country. Copper water piping, unlike other materials, adds to the value of your home. So, where you own an old fixer-upper, a finely finished Victorian, a brand new home, or anything in between, if you hope to maintain your property, you will most likely want to know how to solder copper.

Preparation

1. Clean the end of the pipe and fitting. You can use sandpaper, emery cloth, or even coarse steel wool to clean the pipe at least the depth of the fitting socket. Clean the fitting socket, as well, with the proper size fitting brush found in most hardware stores.
2. Apply a good quality flux to the end of the pipe and to the inside of the fitting socket. Go easy in the fitting because a heavy amount of flux in the socket will cause it to boil out, splutter, and possibly burn you. Do apply a generous layer to the end of the pipe. Avoid using the types of flux that are “self-soldering” or that contain lead. Don’t worry about getting your fingers in the flux after it’s applied. That’s the source of an old wive’s tale.
3. Insert the end of the pipe into the fitting socket and twist it as you push it all the way in. You may feel some resistance but it should go in easily.

Tools needed to solder copper pipe and fittings

Solder the Joint

1. Light your torch and hold the tip of the flame at the base of the fitting socket (the end farthest away from the pipe). Play the flame back and forth gently instead of holding it in one place.
2. Use a good quality lead-free solder. Use 95-5 solder for a good, strong joint that will even last underground.
3. Touch the tip of the solder to the joint where the pipe meets the edge of the fitting opposite of where you are holding the torch tip unless you are soldering larger diameters of pipe.
4. When the metal reaches the proper melting point, the solder will rapidly flow around the joint and inside it. Watch the joint itself and when the solder flows in the manner described, remove the solder and the torch and wait for the joint to cool completely before moving it.
5. After the joint has cooled, you can wipe the excess flux residue away with a damp cloth.

Tips

If you move the joint, even slightly, while trying to solder it, it will crack. If that happens, just apply a little more flux with a small brush, reheat the fitting, and apply more solder.

If you apply too much solder, it will simply run out of the joint and that is wasteful. Only feed solder until you see it flow around the circumference of the joint and then remove the solder.

If you wipe the joint with a wet rag, it will make the copper bright and clean. However, there is a chance that the sudden coldness will crack the joint so let it cool a bit before wiping it down.

Cleaning your chimney once a year is important to prevent chimney fires. Every year, chimney fires around the United States claim lives and property. Prevent this from happening to you by properly cleaning your fireplace chimney.

Preparation

1. Begin by placing plastic sheeting, a drop cloth used for painting, or an old tarp, on the fireplace hearth. Fasten material to the mantel with tape (do not use duct tape) or hold the material in place with heavy objects like stacks of old magazines or pieces of firewood. Drape the material over the fireplace opening but do not seal it off tight. You will need to be able to access the fireplace while cleaning the chimney.
2. Gather the proper cleaning tools. Some recommend using a rope attached to a small piece of wood or a brick and dropping that down the chimney and letting it scrape the sides, knocking off creosote and soot build-up. Others recommend lowering a heavy chain down the chimney and working it up and down while letting it also bang the chimney walls. These methods work to one degree or another but there is a possibility of damaging the mortar or brick on the inside of the flue. Instead, use a properly sized chimney brush. These usually come with extensions that you can put together to reach down the height of the chimney. You will also need a shop vacuum. Be sure to follow the shop vacuum manufacturer’s instructions because some shop vacuums cannot be used to vacuum up soot, ash, and creosote.

Clean the Chimney

1. With a ladder in place, climb up on the roof, remove the chimney cap, and lower the brush down the chimney, paying special attention to the sides and corners of the chimney flue.
2. Work the brush up and down, scrubbing the chimney walls, as you lower the brush to the bottom.
3. Remove the brush and replace the chimney cap.

Clean the Fireplace

1. Inside the house, clean the fallen soot, ash, and creosote from the hearth.
2. Remove the fireplace damper. You usually push this metal plate up and tilt it to remove it from the chimney. This helps you gain access to the smoke shelf above.
3. All the debris you loosened from the chimney walls fell onto the smoke shelf so this has to be cleaned.
4. Reach up and pull as much debris as possible down from the smoke shelf. If you cannot reach the smoke shelf, a small horizontal shelf above the fireplace damper, you may be able to clean it with the shop vacuum wand. You can also fashion an implement shaped like a hockey stick to help remove the debris.
5. Vacuum the collected debris from the fireplace grate and hearth, remove the protective cloths, and finish cleaning in that area.
6. If your fireplace has an outside ash door (the little access door at the very base of your fireplace outside) do not neglect to open that and remove all collected ash and soot there, as well.

Tips

Probably the most important aspect of cleaning a chimney is to get as much debris as possible off the smoke shelf. This is the area closest to the fire and if the accumulated ash, soot, and creosote is left on the smoke shelf it may very well catch fire the first time you light one after chimney cleaning.

While engaged in cleaning the chimney, take the time to check the mortar inside the chimney flue with a strong light and outside, as well. Also remember to inspect the chimney flashings, those metal strips that run at the base of your chimney against the roof. Inspect the fire brick inside your chimney hearth, too.

An annual chimney cleaning is the perfect time to discover damage to your fireplace chimney and repair it.