A basket strainer is the part in the bottom of the kitchen sink that receives the crumb cup or stopper. Basket strainers are typically made from either hard plastics or chrome-plated brass. Some strainers are also made of pot metal and some commercial quality ones are made from stainless steel. Replacing the strainer is relatively straightforward but there are some tricks of the trade that will ensure success.

Removing the old strainer

Basket strainers take a lot of wear and tear and need to be changed occasionally

1. Unscrew the strainer slip nut that connects the drainpipe extension to the bottom of the strainer. Use a pair of water pump or channellock pliers or a pipe wrench to do this.
2. Use a spanner wrench or a special basket strainer wrench found in the plumbing section of most hardware and home center stores to remove the basket strainer mount nut.
3. Wiggle the basket strainer to break the seal between it and the sink and push the strainer up and out of the sink from underneath.

Installing the new basket strainer

1. Clean and dry the top and bottom of the sealing lip of the strainer hole in the sink. Be careful of the sharp edges.
2. Remove the nut and washers from the new basket strainer.
3. Apply a finger-size bead of plumber’s putty to the bottom of the rim of the strainer.
4. Place the strainer in the hole from above and press it into place.
5. Hold the strainer in place with one hand and, reaching underneath with the other, place the rubber gasket, cardboard friction ring, and nut over the bottom of the strainer in that order. You may want to enlist the aid of another to help with this step.
6. Start the nut, being careful not to cross thread it.
7. Hold the strainer in place with a basket strainer wrench while you tighten the nut. If no strainer wrench is available, you can use two screwdrivers placed in opposing holes in the strainer and crossed to provide the leverage you need while you tighten the nut.
8. Clean off the excess plumber’s putty.
9. Reconnect the drainpipe extension to the bottom of the strainer with the slip nut and gasket.
10. Run water in the sink to check for links. Put the stopper or crumb cup in place and fill the sink basin with water. Let it sit for a brief period and check for leaks underneath the sink a second time. If necessary, drain the water out and retighten the strainer nut.

Tips

Do not use any type of caulking compound in place of plumber’s putty.

Heavy weight chrome-plated brass or stainless steel basket strainers last and stay tight over time. Cheaper plastic and pot metal strainers tend to loosen and leak over time because you cannot tighten them as much as necessary.

The screw-in type of crumb cup is the most durable and water tight.

There are an almost endless number of kitchen sink faucets on the market today. And their designs are almost as limitless. Fortunately, with a few model exceptions, most kitchen sink faucets follow a fairly standard procedure for removal and replacement. Some faucets require reworking of the plumbing inside the cabinet but this is usually minor.

Preparation

A new kitchen faucet is just the thing to complete a kitchen remodel

1. Gather a bucket and some rags to catch water.
2. Turn off the water at the stops or valves under the sink. If they are old, corroded, or difficult to turn, it is best to shut off the water at the main shut off. You should also shut off the water at the hot water heater.

Removing the old faucet

1. Disconnect the hot and cold water lines at the valves under the sink. Hold the valve with one wrench while you loosen the nut with another to keep from damaging the valve or piping.
2. If your old faucet was the type with the pull out spray spout, remove the weight on the hose under the sink, disconnect the end of the hose that connects to the faucet body and pull the spout/hose assembly free of the faucet.
3. Remove the faucet mount nuts and crush washers on the bottom side of the sink.
4. Pull the old faucet out of the sink. Remove the old gasket and clean the corresponding sink surface thoroughly.

Installing the new faucet

1. Install the new gasket on the base of the new faucet.
2. Place the new faucet mount bolts or water line connectors through the holes in the sink.
3. Install washers and nuts on the mount bolts or faucet base and tighten them securely. Make certain the faucet is properly centered on the faucet ledge of the sink.
4. If you are installing a pull out spout type faucet, feed the spout hose through the faucet body and connect it underneath with the supplied gasket but no Teflon thread or pipe joint compound.
5. Place the split weight at the base of the spout hose loop.
6. Sliding the compression nuts and ferrules respectively on the water lines, connect the water lines to the shut off valves or angle stops under the sink. Hold the tubing straight in the stop while you tighten the nut snugly. Once again, do not use Teflon tape or pipe joint compound on this joint. You can use a small amount of a light oil like mineral oil or machine oil on the joint if you think it needs some lubrication.
7. If your faucet has a separate spray, now is the time to install the spray escutcheon and spray hose. Use plumber’s putty on the escutcheon and no Teflon tape or pipe joint compound on the other end.
8. Remove the faucet aerator and flush the hot and cold water lines out well, then reinstall the faucet aerator.

Tips

If your old faucet has been in place for many years, it may be corroded in place. You can purchase a faucet removal tool at some hardware and home centers that will help you cut off the faucet mount bolts or nuts under the sink. It is operated with a ratchet and socket extension.

Do not use any type of caulking compound when installing the faucet. Use a good quality plumber’s putty instead.

Refacing kitchen cupboards will create a new look and allow you to update your kitchen at a reasonable cost compared to installing all new cabinetry. Refacing cupboards and cabinets is not difficult and can be a fun project. There are many different ways to refinish your kitchen cabinets. You can repaint them, or simply install new doors and drawer fronts. You can also exchange the old hardware for new updated styles. There are many different styles of self-sticking veneers available in wood grain patterns as well as colors, and you can also install RTF (rigid thermofoil) foil on the face frames of your cabinet boxes. RTF foil typically does not come with self-adhesive backing. In this article, we will address refacing kitchen cabinets with self-sticking veneers.

Preparation

1. Cover all floor surfaces with drop clothes to protect the finish.
2. Remove all doors and drawers, including hinges and drawer pulls.
3. Clean your cabinets with a solution of TSP or dish detergent and warm water.
4. Do not soak the wood. Simply wipe it down and let it dry.
5. Sand the surface of the face frame with 100 or 150 grit sandpaper. All you want to do here is rough up the surface lightly to promote good adhesion.
6. Remove the dust with a vacuum and a tack cloth.

Update your old kitchen cupboards with a fresh new application of veneer.

Installation

1. Install plywood on the end panels of the cabinets in a pattern and color that matches, complements, or contrasts with, the veneer. Use a good quality adhesive and 2d finishing nails. Countersink the nails and fill the holes with wood putty or filler. Sand before finishing.
2. Sand the edges of the plywood end panels that are adjacent to the face frame flush and smooth.
3. Cut the veneer ½” wider than the stiles (the vertical face frame members) and 2” longer. Cut the veneer so that the grain runs lengthwise.
4. Butt the top of the veneer strip against the top of the stile. Remove a little of the backing and press the veneer strip in place allowing the extra width and length to overlap the sides equally.
5. Next, cut strips of veneer for the rails (the horizontal face frame members). Overlap the ends of the rail strips over the stiles veneer pieces.
6. Trim the veneer where the rail piece and stile piece overlap at the same time.
7. Gently pick up the overlapped end of the rail veneer piece and remove the stile veneer waste with the point of a razor knife.
8. Lay the rail piece down and press it in place.
9. Work all the air bubbles out by pressing the veneer in place with a smooth wooden block.
10. Trim the veneer with a razor knife or a laminate trimmer and the proper bits.
11. Do each opening one at a time.
12. Install door hinges and doors, centering the doors in the door openings.
13. Install the door hardware.
14. Install the drawer fronts. If the drawer is a four-sided box, remove the old drawer front and install the new one in its place. If the drawer is a three-sided box, cut the overhanging edges of the old drawer front flush with the sides, top, and bottom of the drawer. Reverse the drawer, install the new drawer front on the back end of the drawer box, reverse the drawer slides, and reinstall the drawer.
15. Install the drawer pulls and door knobs.

Tips

Cover the edges of the face frame first for a complete and professional look. Use the same technique as for the face frame.

You can trim the veneer with a pair of tin snips and a fine file if you do not have the laminate trimmer and bits.

Veneer is designed to stick to a finished surface. It will not stick to raw wood. So, for raw wood applications, apply a light coat of spray lacquer or varnish first for extra adhesion. Let it dry thoroughly before applying the veneer.