One of the most common home repairs is replacing a worn and leaking sink drain, also called a p-trap. The p-shaped drain piping under the kitchen sink or bathroom lavatory is called a p-trap. This assembly is made up of two pieces. The wall bend is the piece of pipe that enters the wall at the back of the cabinet. The “J” bend is the next piece of pipe. It connects the wall bend with the tailpiece or drain extension, the pipe that extends from the bottom of the sink to the trap. P-traps are typically made of PVC plastic or chrome-plated brass tubing. They can also be ABS plastic pipe, which is common under sinks in mobile homes. Replacing a p-trap is not particularly difficult but there are a few “tricks of the trade” that will make your job easier.

Preparation

1. Clean out the cabinet under the kitchen sink.
2. Place a container under the p-trap to catch gray water that remains in the bottom of the p-trap.
3. Gather some rags to clean up afterwards.
4. Use rubber gloves to protect your hands and wear safety goggles in case any drain cleaner was poured into the drain.

Removing the old p-trap

1. Use a pair of water pump pliers (also called “channellocks” in the plumbing trade) or a 14″ pipe wrench to loosen the slip nuts on both the wall bend and the J bend. Myths and old wives’ tales to the contrary, a monkey wrench or smooth-jawed Ford wrench won’t help you here. The proper tool will make all the difference between success and failure.
2. Wiggle the p-trap to loosen the joints. Allow the water to drain into the container.
3. Pull the p-trap J bend free and throw it away.
4. Use a twisting motion and pull the wall bend out of the threaded wall connection.

Installing the new p-trap

1. If you are installing a PVC p-trap, you will use plastic beveled cone gaskets. If the new p-trap is made of metal, you will be using square-cut slip joint gaskets. The two different types of gaskets are not interchangeable.
2. Clean the threads of the wall connection.
3. Inspect the vertical drain extension tubing that comes down from the bottom of the sink. Make sure it is clean, solid, and not corroded.
4. Slide a slip nut and gasket, respectively, on the vertical drain extension pipe, also called a tailpiece.
5. Place a slip nut over the wall bend so that it fits over the preformed seal on the p-trap end.
6. Slide a second slip nut over the wall bend facing the wall connection followed by a gasket.
7. Slip the wall bend inside the wall connection and start the slip nut loosely.
8. Place the J bend over the vertical drain connection and align it with the preformed end of the wall bend.
9. Start the remaining two slip nuts on that connect the vertical drain pipe to the J bend and the wall bend to the other end of the J bend.
10. With one hand, hold the J bend in perfect alignment with the drain extension and tighten that slip nut hand tight.
11. Follow the same procedure with the slip nut that connects the J bend to the wall bend.
12. Using your pliers or wrench, give each slip nut an additional ¼ to ½ turn.
13. Wipe down the drain piping.
14. Turn on the water at the faucet and check your work for leaks.

Tips

If you are installing a metal p-trap, be sure you use brass friction rings between the slip nuts and the gaskets or the joints will leak.

When using pliers to install the new p-trap, be careful not to squeeze the pliers or you will distort the slip nuts and they will seem to have tightened up when, in fact, they are still loose and will leak. Let the pliers jaws do all the work of gripping and turning the slip nuts.

If your PVC p-trap leaks when you test it simply loosen the leaking slip nut slightly, realign that joint, and retighten the slip nut. If it still leaks, remove and replace the beveled gasket with a new one.

According to some experts, there are over 15 million private water wells in the United States. Almost all private water wells are equipped with water pressure tanks. These tanks serve the primary purpose of assisting the water pump in supplying water to a residence. They help to prolong the life of the pump by supplying water under pressure without the pump turning on. They accomplish this by virtue of a captive air charge in the tank. That is why they are also known as captive air tanks.

Two different types

1. Water pressure or captive air tanks come in two different basic configurations.
2. The old style tank is just an empty galvanized tank that is equipped with an air volume control that keeps the tank charged with air.
3. The more modern style has a rubber bladder or diaphragm inside that separates the air chamber from the water chamber.

Servicing the tank

1. If your old style tank becomes water logged, the pump will run frequently or not turn off at all. There are two ways to fix this.
2. You can shut off the pump and drain the tank, then turn the pump back on and restore the service.
3. You can replace the air volume control. Air volume controls fail frequently and are not really very effective at doing their job. Many times the serviceman may just remove the control and plug the opening and instruct the homeowner to drain the tank periodically.
4. Of course, the most efficient fix is to just replace the old style tank with a new captive air tank.

Annual maintenance

1. At least once a year, check the air pressure in your captive air tank.
2. Remove the small cap over the air valve. It may be on the side or on the top of the tank.
3. Using a tire air pressure gauge, check the air pressure. It should read 2 psi less than the cut-in pressure of your pump. You can find this pressure rating by looking inside the lid of the pressure switch, a small gray or black box on top of your pump or installed in the piping to your pressure tank.
4. If the pressure is low, check the bladder for leaks.
5. Check the bladder for leaks by depressurizing the water system. Open a faucet somewhere until the water stops running. Air up the captive air tank to the proper level and let it sit for at least 15 minutes. At the end of that time, simply take another reading of the air pressure. If the pressure has dropped at all with the system completely depressurized, the bladder or diaphragm is leaking and the tank needs to be replaced.

Soldering copper, also known as sweating copper, is an old art and an easy one to learn. Copper piping is widely being supplanted by new technologies such as pvc, cpvc, pex tubing, and cross-linked pex. But there are still situations where copper water piping is desirable and even widely used. You will still typically find copper water pipes in commercial buildings such as schools, hospitals, public buildings, and business and industry. Some contractors still utilize copper water piping in residences in certain parts of the country. Copper water piping, unlike other materials, adds to the value of your home. So, where you own an old fixer-upper, a finely finished Victorian, a brand new home, or anything in between, if you hope to maintain your property, you will most likely want to know how to solder copper.

Preparation

1. Clean the end of the pipe and fitting. You can use sandpaper, emery cloth, or even coarse steel wool to clean the pipe at least the depth of the fitting socket. Clean the fitting socket, as well, with the proper size fitting brush found in most hardware stores.
2. Apply a good quality flux to the end of the pipe and to the inside of the fitting socket. Go easy in the fitting because a heavy amount of flux in the socket will cause it to boil out, splutter, and possibly burn you. Do apply a generous layer to the end of the pipe. Avoid using the types of flux that are “self-soldering” or that contain lead. Don’t worry about getting your fingers in the flux after it’s applied. That’s the source of an old wive’s tale.
3. Insert the end of the pipe into the fitting socket and twist it as you push it all the way in. You may feel some resistance but it should go in easily.

Tools needed to solder copper pipe and fittings

Solder the Joint

1. Light your torch and hold the tip of the flame at the base of the fitting socket (the end farthest away from the pipe). Play the flame back and forth gently instead of holding it in one place.
2. Use a good quality lead-free solder. Use 95-5 solder for a good, strong joint that will even last underground.
3. Touch the tip of the solder to the joint where the pipe meets the edge of the fitting opposite of where you are holding the torch tip unless you are soldering larger diameters of pipe.
4. When the metal reaches the proper melting point, the solder will rapidly flow around the joint and inside it. Watch the joint itself and when the solder flows in the manner described, remove the solder and the torch and wait for the joint to cool completely before moving it.
5. After the joint has cooled, you can wipe the excess flux residue away with a damp cloth.

Tips

If you move the joint, even slightly, while trying to solder it, it will crack. If that happens, just apply a little more flux with a small brush, reheat the fitting, and apply more solder.

If you apply too much solder, it will simply run out of the joint and that is wasteful. Only feed solder until you see it flow around the circumference of the joint and then remove the solder.

If you wipe the joint with a wet rag, it will make the copper bright and clean. However, there is a chance that the sudden coldness will crack the joint so let it cool a bit before wiping it down.

Footing drains, or French drains, are installed at the base of foundations to direct water that migrates underground away from the structure. Footing drains are an essential component of proper foundation construction and are required in most parts of the country irrespective of standing water conditions. Footing drains protect the cement footing of a structure from damage caused by water and from freeze damage where underground water above the frost line freezes and heaves the cement foundation, damaging the concrete or cement block stem wall.

Preparation

1. Dig down alongside your existing foundation until the bottom of your ditch is at least even with, and preferably lower than, the base of the foundation.
2. Grade the ditch bottom to slope toward the lowest corner or common point of the house where you intend to lead the footing drain away from your structure.
3. Clean the outside of the basement wall or stem wall to prepare it for a water proof coating. You can pressure wash it or use a heavy brush and detergent water with a strong rinse.
4. After the masonry dries, coat the outside of the concrete or cement block basement or stem wall with a good quality water proof coating using a paint roller, spray gun, or large, wide brush.
5. Let the waterproof coating dry according to the manufacturer’s directions.

Installation

1. Install a 2” to 4” layer of good quality pea gravel or drain rock in the bottom of the ditch and grade it to match the grade of the ditch.
2. Lay in the 4” drain pipe. ADS perforated pipe is the common building material to use. Consult your local plumbing or building code to find out which materials are approved in your area.
3. Make certain the pipe is laid down straight and properly graded.
4. Backfill the ditch a little at a time, tamping the backfill material as you go.

Tips

Many localities allow you to stub your gutter downspouts into the footing drain. If this is the case where you live, simply install tees on their backs at every downspout location, stub the footing drainpipe above the finish grade and install a downspout adapter to accept the downspout.

If your locality does not permit downspouts to be attached to the footing drain you will have to install a second 4” pipe line to accept roof runoff. That pipeline can usually be installed in the same ditch as the footing drain. Be sure to consult local building codes in your area.

There are many different types of tub waste and overflows. We will discuss the Watco 601 pp tub waste and overflow and others like it because they are so popular, relatively easy to install, and conform to the Uniform Plumbing Code.

If you have a tub that has been in place a long time, you probably have an old brass slip joint style tub waste and overflow installed on it. These are good units that last a long time. However, they don’t meet the requirements for the UPC when it comes to waste and overflows installed in enclosed spaces like ceiling or joist spaces. So, if yours has started leaking and you need to replace it, consider a waste and overflow unit similar to the Watco 601 pp or a Rapidfit tub waste and overflow.

If you are remodeling your bathroom, it’s a good time to replace that waste and overflow. If your tub sits on a concrete slab, the job may seem impossible but it’s not.

Remove the tub drain and overflow trim, all the necessary surround pieces, the sheetrock or lathe and plaster, and remove the tub. Set the tub on a solid surface and level it both ways. Now measure through the tub drain hole and determine how far it is from the solid surface to the inside of the tub at that location. Write that down, and measure the distance from the solid surface to the center of the overflow hole. Write that down, as well.

Using an ABS sanitary tee, cut a piece of 11/2” ABS pipe to fit from the top outlet of the tee to the overflow fitting. Now, cut a piece of the 11/2” pipe to fit from the side outlet of the tee to the drain fitting. Push fit those pieces together and try the waste and overflow on the tub. You will almost certainly need to make more than one cut on both pieces of pipe. This is very much a trial and error procedure. Make sure the overflow fitting meets the overflow hole in the tub squarely and the same for the drain fitting. If it fits well without further adjustment, go ahead and glue the pieces together with ABS cement, aligning the overflow fitting and the drain fitting to face each other and be parallel to the pipe they are fastened to.

Cut off the old p-trap in the hole in the floor and, using the measurements you took earlier, fit a new p-trap, install the new waste and overflow so that the top of the drain fitting is the proper distance from the floor’s surface, and centered to meet the drain hole in the tub. It’s best to cut and fit repeatedly, making small adjustments until you get it perfect, then mark the floor indicating the center of the tub drain fitting so you can install the glued-up assembly to your marks.

Pick up the tub and walk it into position. Lower it straight down over the tub drain until it sits firmly on its supports and the concrete floor. If everything has gone well, the tub drain and overflow match up perfectly with the respective holes in the tub.

Fold the tub drain gasket and work it into position on top of the drain fitting through the drain hole in the bottom of the tub. Putty the tub drain flange and screw it into place. A word of caution: the metal threads of the drain flange will easily strip the plastic threads in the drain fitting. Go slowly and carefully here or all your work will be in vain.

Fit the overflow gasket into place using the same method as described above for the drain fitting. Install the overflow plate with the mount screw observing the same precaution above. Trim the putty around the drain fitting and finish the rest of your tub installation.

A mini version of the two foot bury yard hydrant

A yard hydrant is a type of outside faucet that you typically install in a location remote from the home or outbuilding. It can, however, be installed adjacent to a structure, if you use proper installation techniques. This fixture minimizes the amount of garden hose you must have. It is convenient for filling watering troughs for animals, providing water for greenhouses, gardens,

flowerbeds, washing vehicles and equipment, hosing off cement slabs, and even hand watering lawns, golf courses, etc.

Choose the correct yard hydrant for your area by determining the frost line. In most parts of the United States a two-foot bury yard hydrant is sufficient. In Alaska, you might want to use a three or even four foot bury yard hydrant depending on where the frost line is. A two foot bury yard hydrant means you must bury the yard hydrant a minimum of two feet under ground.

Next, determine the location for your yard hydrant. Make sure the location you choose is out of all traffic areas and close enough to your water use that a minimum of hose is needed.

Now, dig a suitable hole with posthole diggers about four feet deep. This will be for the post support for the hydrant. Widen that hole to about two feet six inches down for the yard hydrant itself. The hole must be at least two feet six inches deep and wide enough to work in. Place a four by four or four by six post, cut to about six and a half or not more than seven feet long and treated for ground contact in the post hole, orient the post correctly according to where you want the outlet of the hydrant to point and backfill the hole with dirt, tamping the dirt firmly after every couple of shovels full. Stop when you backfill to the level of the two foot six inch hole’s bottom. Then place about six inches of drain rock or pea gravel in the bottom of that hole. The yard hydrant will sit on this base.

Apply pipe joint compound or Teflon tape to the threads of a ¾” red brass street elbow and screw it into the base of the yard hydrant. Orient the elbow to the outlet of the yard hydrant so the outlet points in the direction you desire.

Obtain a three foot long section of ¾” galvanized pipe threaded on both ends. You can buy this at most hardware stores that sell plumbing supplies and at most home centers. Apply joint compound to the external threads on both ends of the pipe and screw it into the open end of the red brass elbow. On the opposite end of the ¾” galvanize pipe, install a ¾” red brass ground key stop and waste valve and an adapter for polybutylene, plastic, or copper pipe. Make sure you examine the valve and install it in the correct direction or it will act like a check valve and stop water from flowing to the hydrant. I like to install a wooden or metal stake on each side of the galvanized pipe close to the stop and waste valve to support it from any possible sideways movement. When backfilling the trench, install a shutoff box for the stop and waste valve so you have access to it.

You must support the yard hydrant solidly in order to prevent damage to the under ground connections and the yard hydrant itself. Using two or more galvanized two hole pipe clamps, attach the body of the yard hydrant to the post turning the hydrant to face the correct direction then tighten the clamp screws. Put enough gravel in the hole to cover the hydrant about six inches above the base. This will allow the hydrant to drain properly whenever it is shut off, keeping it from freezing.

Backfill the remaining hole with dirt tamping it firmly as you backfill.

Dig a trench to your existing underground water line. A utilities locator can help find it if you don’t know where it is. Shut off the water that feeds that line and, using proper adapter fittings, cut into the water line and connect the polybutylene, copper, or plastic line from the yard hydrant into it. Turn the water back on, test your installation, and completely backfill the trenchwork.